Tuesday, June 3, 2008

directions?

Yesterday I was asked the question: "If you could wake up tomorrow and be the best at anything, what would it be?"

I was in the just before bed, chilling out stage of my day and for that moment I thought, "If I could be the best surfer in the world tomorrow morning, without doing any work, that would be pretty cool."

Traveling from beach to beach, surfing the same water everywhere in the world; the same waves a 10 year old could be learning to surf, across the globe. On the water, hangin' 10.

Yeah, that would be pretty cool.

This morning was one of those days in the pool where I had to work for every last second. The speed was coming, but it was far from easy.

I thought: "You know what? I love this. I love the hard work. I love sinking my teeth into something challenging. The feeling of approaching a barrier, and breaking through. The hard work is one of the number one reasons why I love this. It is one of the reasons I chose this sport." Honestly, this is it.

The days when things come easily are great, rewarding, thrilling, exciting. With the work, we find the place where all is calm, smooth, and flowing in perfect togetherness.

Surfing is a lot more than just riding the wave. It's about becoming united with the wave. There is no struggle to surf the wave, you simple ride. The rider and the wave are together in unison, singing the same song, moving the same way, with the same purpose.

We have had some great training during the last few days. It is great to have A-Russ back fully fueled from "the (revel)Stoke," + the whole group is looking fit and ready for a good week(end) in Van-city.

Find your wave, hop on for a ride, and rest well.

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